This multi-media kit (styrene, rubber, photoetched stainless steel) is one large kit. The Flanker B is a very large aircraft
and the kit reflects this as the finished model is over 18 inched long. All the parts are crisply molded with little flash
or mold lines. Recessed panel lines, separate flaps, elevators and rudders along with other features make for a well
detailed kit, with one glaring exception. This is the ejection seat. Modelers would be advised to pickup Verlinden's K-36
Ejection seat #636 to correct this. If you go this route you will need to remove the bottom of part C9, add a piece of
0.010 styrene sheet on top of the nose gear well which is molded into the lower fuse half. If you do not, the canopy will
not close.
Speaking of the canopy, there is a mold line right down the middle on the exterior. I removed the seam with nail polishing
sticks I purchased at "The Body Shoppe" (ask your wives or mothers, not your buddies!) I polished the canopy with plastic
polish and it looks great. The kit went togetherwell with no major problems. Everything fit in place. Remember that
photoetched parts require krazy glue to attach them.
Finding the correct color locations was a little difficult, as page 8 in the plans has a color schedule but it has no FS
numbers where you would like them. Page 7 shows the paint & Decal guide and has all possible elevations including the inside
of the vertical tails. An A plus for this. FS numbers are given for all the exterior colors. Too bad most of them are hard
to find. I lucked out with the following combination:
Dark Green FS 34188 Polly S #500206 Top Side Green
Dark Blue FS 25450 Model Master #2131 Flanker Med Blue
Blue Grey FS 25526 Gunze #323 Light Blue
Light Blue FS 25550 Model Master #2130 Flanker Pale Blue
Using my airbrush, I coated the aircraft with the Pale Blue on all sides as a base. I did not attach the gear doors,
stabilizers and tails to simplify the painting. The nose cone was painted white and the metal areas steel. and masked them
off. Free handing the camouflage makes for interesting painting and the final result looks great. After spraying on 2 coats
of Future floor wax, I got into decalling. All went well except for the shark related ones. Decal 18 was the worst. I
recommend that modelers slice this one into manageable sections as it will tear easily. The decals respond well to solveset,
snuggling down and tightening up well. Keep a bottle of Dark Blue handy for any touch ups you may require.
This is the stage I am at now in construction. Hopefully its done for the meeting.
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