Modelcraft has recently released a Twin Otter model kit that includes markings of four colourful paint schemes, the most notable of which is Kenn Borek Air Ltd. Their Twin Otters have become recognizable world wide due to the company’s operations around the North and South Poles (and everywhere in between!) As the largest civilian operator of Twin Otters in the world Kenn Borek has several historical aircraft within their fleet.

CF-PAT is the first production airframe, and has recently been donated to the Aero Space Museum of Calgary.

C-GKBG and C-GCKB broke into the record books with successful winter rescues of personnel from Antarctica in 2001 and 2003.

Many of Kenn Borek’s fleet is stationed around the world. For such operations as the Maldivian Air Taxi, the U.S. Antarctic Program, and occasionally the United Nations, the recognizable Red/White/Black scheme is standard. Specific nomenclature markings are applied to identify the operator.

The Modelcraft kit is a reissue of the classic Matchbox kit. Although first released in 1983, this model kit still stands up to present model kit standards. Details are still sharp, certain lines are recessed for scale effect, and the dimensions are accurate. In laymen’s terms, it looks like a Twin Otter.

Construction of the model kit is very straight forward and easy to follow using the instruction sheet diagrams. The interior colours should be as follows: Instrument panel, control column, floorboards, and seat bottoms are Light Ghost Grey. Instrument faces are black, as are the panel cover, overhead column and the control wheel handles. The seat cushions are a fabric close to PRU Blue. The entire rear compartment and sidewalls of the cockpit are light beige. The forward bulkhead and cockpit doors have a vinyl liner applied that is remarkably close to Russian Interior Blue.

The modeler can choose to install the windows before closing the fuselage, or wait until after painting. If they are installed prior to painting, masking can be a “fun” task. Similarly, installing the propellers and exhaust nozzles prior to painting will cause grief when masking the nacelles. To assist with the painting process, I suggest the modeler check the tightness of the Wing to Fuselage joint, and the Elevator to Vertical Stab connections. If your example will build up with no gaps, leave the wings and tails off for now. Kenn Borek’s paint shop leaves the wings off when they paint the real thing. As a final construction note, the vortex generators molded on the elevators are mounted on the underside. Several areas will require putty filler. The nacelles and fuselage seams will require this treatment.

The decals offered in the kit are reasonably printed, though several slight smudges were found on my example. The painting instructions and font types are however very inaccurate. Access to the real aircraft was certainly beneficial to ensure proper placement of the supplied decals, and for masking the colour separations. Various visits to Borek’s hanger have revealed their process. We’ll start the painting process with the fuselage. Although standard painting conventions are to start with the lighter shades first, I feel that starting with the black would work best. Spray the glare screen and leading edge of the vertical stab. The upper surface of the wing, nacelle, and from the flap/aileron joint inboard are also black. The instructions indicate that the black carries across the fuselage between the wings. This is not the case. The elevators are also all black. Once the paint has dried, masking can begin. Photocopy the decal sheet several times, as it will be used as a pattern. A masking pattern for the glare screen is provided below. At the base of the vertical stab is a panel line. The demarcation runs from the intersection at the base of the stab/fuse to the forward edge of the notch at the top of the tail. The upper section is marked by the jog at the rudder’s top.

The next mask is the most tricky to complete. Using the photocopied sheet, apply a section of tape over the thin white question mark shaped curves. I prefer a product called Tamiya Tape, as it is translucent and will allow some repeated peel and stick that this next step will require. Maneuver the page so that each curve is aligned like the ? Carefully cut to the inside edge of the white line. Either make a pen mark at the end of the line, or cut the tape 90 degrees at the end of the lines. If your mask is the same length of the decal, then you know your decals will connect. The bulbous curve will ride slightly higher than the instruction sheet shows. The result will be uniform curves that meet at the centerline of the nacelles top and bottom. Take your time, as it will eventually fit. Imagine if you had to work around the glued on propeller and exhaust nozzles! Once the shapes are to your satisfaction, the upper surface of the wing and rear of nacelles can be masked. The outer wing panels are painted white. The demarcation line is found between the flap and aileron. It is black straight across inboard of the aileron. The wingtip and leading edge are also black. Use the kit panel lines for reference.

The next color to spray is the white. This will cover the lower fuselage and outer wing panels. Spray farther up on the fuselage with the white than the instructions show in order to assist with the red to white demarcation line. Once the white has sufficiently dried, masking for the red can commence. Cut the lightning stripe from the photocopy and lightly tape it in place on the model. The upper tip of the lightning stripe should touch the lower corner of the first square window. Ensure that the black line is parallel to the windows. Your masking should be about 4mm below the windows. Apply masking behind the black line so that the decal will cover your red/white boundary. The decals will not close together at the nose. Continue with a straight line that curves around the nose. Italian Red is a very close stock paint for the red. Borek’s paint has a slight orange tint, that more experienced modelers may choose to mix themselves. Once the red has dried remove all the masking. Let the paint cure for several days.

My opinion regarding the quality of the kit decals changed for the worse once I started applying them. Extreme caution and care will need to be used with these decals. They break easily and will need to be moved around to get them into place. I would highly recommend applying a coat of MicroScale Liquid Decal film. This will add some strength, but will require each marking to be cut to size individually. Start with the white bands for the engine Nacelles. Overlap the ends on top to obtain a sharp point. My example broke in several sections, so take your time to avoid damage. Unfortunately with this decal you’re only given one shot with the intricate markings. It is common to use a decal setting solution to help the decals bond to the paint. I would allow the water to evaporate first to ensure the decals are in place, and then follow with an application of a mild decal set like MicroSol. The lightning strip on the fuselage is going to take some time to apply. The curved section at the forward end has too much bend to it. The actual paint scheme is level when viewed from the side. Start at the tail and ensure the strip is parallel with the bottom of the windows. As mentioned above, the tip of the flash will touch the corner of the first square window, and about a 1mm section of red will exist under the crew door windows. Now the “fun” increases. Bend the decal slightly so that the line continues straight when viewed from the side. Some minor bumps might result with the line, but they can be touched up with paint later. Apply the Flags on the tail.

The font type used for the registration codes is bogus. Below is a string of codes that can be photocopied onto clear decal film if you prefer accuracy. The Kenn Borek name font is also incorrect, but eliminating brush stroke from the K will help with the overall look. After the decals have been applied, some paint touchups will be required. Using a fine brush fill in the curve between the strips on the nose. The flash will also require some spots filled in where the black was not properly printed showing the colours below. Once you are satisfied with the finish, a final sprayed coat of clear will lock the decals in place.

This is certainly not a simple open the box, add glue and its done type of model kit. The modeler will need a high level of ambition in order to complete a Kenn Borek Twin Otter. However with time and patience a beautiful model can be built. I enjoyed building this kit, and spent about 60 hours on the project.